Vogue censored
(Cập nhật: 21.05.2008 10:10)
The local fashion industry calls Vietnam’s censorship laws backward and irrational.
Local fashion designers say that archaic censorship rules are holding the fashion industry back.
The
“Regulation of Performing and Organizing Professional Arts Activities”
prohibits all stage performers – whether musicians, singers, dancers,
models or circus acts – from wearing any makeup or clothing that might
be considered lewd or tawdry.
The
regulation, which was passed in 2004 by what was then the Ministry of
Culture, Sports and Tourism, sets no guidelines for what might be
considered inappropriate.
Fashion
show organizers must obtain approval for their shows from the municipal
Department of Culture and Information before the performance takes
place.
All clothes to be showcased, or at least drawings of the clothes, must be submitted to the authorities for censorship.
The department then asks organizers and designers to redesign clothes it sees as either scanty or immoral.
Designers complain that such censorship only ensures the Vietnamese fashion industry’s provinciality.
They
say authorities’ decisions are often arbitrary and disrespect
designers’ creative talents while disregarding international trends in
beauty and style.
Award-winning designer Ngo Thai Uyen calls such censorship unreasonable.
“Censorship towards state-run shows is always less harsh than those organized by private companies,” she says.
“I
always have to remake my dresses that show models’ bare backs. Since
there’s no clear explanation as to what is considered inappropriate,
the censors’ views are biased and subjective, based on their own
sensibilities,” she says.
“I
think the censors should be knowledgeable about fashion and the arts.
They shouldn’t be so rigid as to shield every bit of skin that is
uncovered. This is why our local industry lag behind the times,” said
Uyen.
While
designer Vo Viet Chung says he is very happy with the local fashion
industry’s recent development, he also criticizes state censorship of
the art.
“The
censors need to differentiate between two concepts – sexiness and
beauty. A trashy half-naked disco dancer is definitely different from a
lady in a party dress that reveals her bare back. Designers are
responsible for their products. We understand the difference between
moral and erotica,” he says.
“Inflexible censorship steals our creativity.”
Another
point of disagreement among designers and censors is swimsuits and
lingerie, which are banned from fashion shows but are still a large
part of national beauty pageants and contests.
Hoang
Ngan, designer and fashion lecturer at Ho Chi Minh City Architecture
University, said “I don’t understand why swimming suits and lingerie
are prohibited at fashion shows while they are still advertised by the
mass media at supermarkets and other public places.”
“There
is a great demand for underclothes and swimsuits in Vietnam, but these
products are not allowed at local fashion shows. Look at our beaches
and we can see the result of such unreasonable regulations. Most
Vietnamese wear T-shirts and shirts and other unfashionable clothes at
the beach.”
Even at some beauty pageants, contestants must wear silk shawls to cover their shoulders or chest during swimsuit competitions.
Reported by Do Tuan
(Copy Thanhniennews) |